AUTHOR AND BLOGGER SANGEETA WADDHWANI BRINGS YOU A RINGSIDE VIEW OF THIS YEAR’S HYBRID JAIPUR LITERATURE FESTIVAL, WHICH BECAME A SPRING LITERARY SOLSTICE OF SORTS, SHOWING US A WARM CITY BLUSHING WITH HER FLORAL BLOOMS. ONCE AGAIN THE HALLS RANG WITH VOICES ON WAR AND PEACE, HISTORICAL WOUNDS AND DISRUPTIVE FUTURES
Colours, voices, handicrafts, laughter, applause and the signature JLF melody swarmed around as one entered Clark’s Amer for JLF 2022.. so what if the winter muses were not with us…after a hiatus of two years, it truly felt like a homecoming!
The 15th annual Jaipur Literature Festival opened on a note of luxury mixed with heritage, as it relocated to the lavish spaces around this hotel… a hop away from the Jaipur International Airport. Formerly, we only ever came here at night, to listen to an eclectic menu of bands at the Music Stage.

Lit Fests create a sense of family, as one earnest acolyte (my young friend Siddharth Kothari) who has been collecting author autographs and their contact information for two years, put it to me… and I totally concurred. Subconsciously, I had been yearning for two years for the JLF experience… to see a familiar face, have a fan moment, taste the local kachoris and dissolve into laughter at a witticism… preferably a Shashi Tharoor one!:)
There is a certain awakening of the collective consciousness at a great gathering of minds, where the burning issues of the moment are tossed on the fiery wok of opinions, insights, updates and multifarious perspectives ringing in from around the globe. I remember so often attending my first sessions at JLF in a state of jet-lag, as only 5.40am flights took off from Mumbai. Still, I would imagine toothpicks between my eyelids as I listened to Germaine Greer talk of the loopholes in the Bill Gates Foundation’s methodology of distributing condoms in red light districts…as her grassroots exposure showed that those condoms were not really being used by ‘customers.’ All those billions assigned to control the spread of AIDS… it was philantrophy in atrophy!
Discussions like these produced so many reality checks, that I always saw the Jaipur Literature Festival as a Global Open University of sorts. And a Fifth Estate of Democracy as it were – a platform for free expression, where every disturbing trend… from the fading out of print media, to a lack of tolerance for dissent in the Indian Parliament in recent times, to the shredding of preconcieved notions of history, geopolitics, racial and gender faultlines, came into laser focus, so that new insights and solutions might be born. One of the most powerful sessions I attended this year, touched on the sensitive topic of India’s neutral stance in the Russia-Ukraine war, called The Changing Axis: India, South Asia and the World. The voice of Bruno Maces sounded like a modern Cassandra, as he warned, “India will sooner or later have to become an ally to the US. Russia is fighting a lone battle, and may reach a point where they can no longer manufacture weapons if their generators are attacked. They will be a global pariah and India will have nothing to gain, and everything to lose, if she still stands on neutral ground.”
From conversations to books; one would think this 1,000 year-old medium of storytelling, has taken a serious bashing in the metaverse-infused reality we live in. The Jaipur Literature Festival however, (even while it had Twitterverse contests earlier) continues to champion a commodity that catered to pre-internet attention spans…. and to be honest, books will always be sacred to born communicators. Even when they sit stocked up like dinosaur eggs next to one’s bedside, hoping to crack open and impregnate the mind of their owner!
What about e-books and audio books? They may be relevant outside a lit fest… but when at JLF… you are urged to run to the bookstore and grab your copy, queue up and meet the author for an autograph! This is the joy of an offline format. We have this quote from a Times of India article of a JLF attendee back in 2012, sharing, “The fact that you get to meet the author in person and get books signed is fascinating and that can never happen with e-books. I met Fatima Bhutto which for me is an opportunity of a lifetime and I will remember the interaction with her all my life,” said Payal Bhalla, who came from Chandigarh to attend the festival. Ditto my experience meeting a publishing legend, global President of Conde Nast, Nicholas Coleridge, who signed his glossy gold-jacketed biography, appropriately called The Glossy Years, making me smile when he wrote, “To a fellow magazine person” in my copy! This was in 2020, just before the Pandemic put a pause to lit fests.
There was a time the statistics for book sales at JLF were staggering: Individual authors sometimes sold 300 copies at a time, and where international authors went… books vanished off the shelves before many attendees could even see them! This is precisely why… JLF brings authors to life in a way that is almost intoxicating, so one forgets that one has little time to consume more content than the phone-delivered gigabytes in a day.
Another argument for an on-ground experience is, the response of a live audience itself can elevate your session, just like musicians thrive on live feedback in a concert. Back in 2009, audiences numbered about 1,000. By 2012, the entire city seemed to have lined up outside Diggi Palace to see Barkha Dutt talk to Oprah Winfrey! It was almost dangerous, the kind of stampede that could have happened as the festival didn’t filter out students or charge them… but every time the audience reacted, electrifying moments happened. Getting a mike to ask a question was a luck by chance thing too!
One has seen JLF go from infancy to adolesence, to full blown adulthood (possibly in that epic year 2012, where we saw luminaries like Ben Okri, Deepak Chopra, Oprah Winfrey and so many other global influencers take the stage). Then while this galloping trajectory only grew, with many Alice-in-wonderland offshoots like heritage nights, the music stage (which had such eclectic fare like Sufi pirs who came in from Pakistan and sang without microphones, or Faiz Ahmed Faiz and Kaifi Azmi’s poems performed by his daughter Shabana Azmi, or performances connected to William Dalyrmple’s book on the sacred performing arts of India, (called Nine Lives)… the Jaipur Literature Festival was such a holistic experience, it came to be called the Woodstock or the Kumbh of literature festivals.
But then, like a villain in a B-grade plot, you suddenly had the Gigantic Reset. The Pandemic. And all offline engagement became like the Original Sin. The fabric of word, conversation, debate, dialogue-baazi – were sucked into the vortex called Zoom. Or Clubhouse. The annual JLF jamboree adapted beautifully, and went on to touch 27 million literature lovers worldover in 2020-2021 – but the soul of a lit fest was missing. The thrill of rubbing shoulders with a Jeet Thayil, a Kiran Desai… of chatting with a passionate interpreter of classical dance like Sharon Lowen… of telling Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni that her book Mistress of Spices, made Indian spices volatile and sexy…. the MetaVerse did not make such informal interactions possible. And yet, it did make it possible to avoid unwieldy lines, stampedes and the stress of not finding a place to sit, stand or hyperventilate in a crowded session. (Yours truly hung from a tree trying to watch Barkha and Oprah!:)

This year’s JLF fell in line with Covid protocol, moving into a larger venue like Clarks Amer, and those student crowds were gone. There was an intimacy one had not felt in recent years, which made asking questions during sessions a breeze. Sure one missed the Greek, American, British, Armenian, Czech, Middle Eastern voices – that brilliant global presence which made a trek to Jaipur feel like you were going around the world, in a literary capacity, in four or five days. But as one of the Festival Directors William Dalyrmple said in an interview to ANI in the pressroom, which I overheard, “JLF 2022 has been a real deep dive into Indian history and culture.” The Scottish writer-historian, shared that they had four Nobel prize winners in this year’s line up, and ushered in Booker Prize winner Damon Galgut, Baillie Gifford, Patrick Radden Keefe and Sahitya Akademi Award winner Namita Gokhale, who is also a co-director of the festival.
I did savour a voice from Lebanon, Katherine Pangonis, author of the book, The Queens of Jerusalem. Who would have ever known the Middle Eastern women rose to formidable power during the Crusades, and some even chose not to marry so they would not loose their autonomy? The author was at pains to point out that most historical narratives of that time came in through male perspectives, and she had to really dig deep into historical material to unearth a Queen-centric view.
There was a time JLF boasted of book sales touching 300 copies per author, (ten years ago)… but this time, I was surprised at the unavailability of Queens of Jerusalem post session, and also that the Full Circle bookstore had only two sets of Dalyrmple’s Company Quartet! The author is truly an authority on the Last Mughal, the White Mughals (it was fascinating when he did a slide show showing the transformation of white officers into sahibs, smoking their hookah and wearing Mughal vetements.) Equally, he and Shashi Tharoor had a lot of common ground when discussing the evil East India company, and what it did to a thriving and industrious India. The Mughals actually were terrible, barbaric, attacking Vrindavana, raping women, destroying temples. But India ranked high on global GDP because her produce – textiles, art, spices, precious stones – were much coveted worldover. The East India company was decoded by Dalyrmple in his slides too – a five-window grey drudgery of a building in London that only employed 35 people, and maybe 250 odd officers in India – bled the country dry of its identity, self-pride, and shredded her economic supremacy.
Out of sentiment, I took a little time off to visit a lifestyle pop-up at the Diggi Palace, the erstwhile ‘home’ of JLF. The spare corridor leading into the palace, surprised me. I have never seen Diggi without the spirit of JLF… and here it was… looking lifeless on its fringes, compared to the frenzy and colour of past years. That magic had been transported to Clarks Amer. In time one realises that JLF carries its own fiercely positive spirit into any space it manifests in. It is magical. And while Zoom as a tech platform can enable a far more easy-to-fund JLF, bringing international voices into a hall over a screen, one still hopes it will grow back to being a global melting pot of ideas in real time and space.
Meanwhile, I truly congratulate Sanjoy Roy of Teamwork Arts for a spectacular resurrection of JLF, and all the festival directors for their love of the written and spoken word. Remember ‘vac’ or speech is a gift of the Goddess Saraswati and carries immense power. Books read in isolation and books discussed in a session speak to us in different ways. The important thing is that we continue to tune in. A new edition of JLF is going to be the ultimate integration of mind, body and spirit, at Soneva Fushi this May. Looking forward to that experience!







































